Right up front, I’d like to invite anyone who has corrections or additions to leave a comment below, or e-mail me at rooibosloloto at gmail dot com! I’m more than happy to update this article as many times as we need to, so it can be a handy resource for people interested in this theme in the future.
Style Description
- Military is a broad theme in lolita that can easily be coorded as gothic, classic or sweet.
- It often overlaps with other uniform based themes like sailor, nurse, pirate, marching band, police, pilot, or academia.
- Military pieces can come in any colour, but it’s most common to find black, white, grey, brown, navy, olive green, jewel tones and pastels.
- Common patterns in the theme are regimental stripes, breton stripes, pinstripes, camouflage, plaid, and emblems.
- Main pieces often include asymmetrical or double breasted enclosures, embellished metal buttons, pleats, straps, buckles, fringe trim, braided cord, leather details, prominent pockets and corset waists.
- Common accessories found are long coats, napoleon jackets, military tunics, spencer jackets, vests, capes, epaulettes, fourragere, pins, badges, ties, boots, berets, peaked caps, tricorns, shako and other hats similar to those worn in various uniformed industries.
The Evolution of Military Lolita
Jane Marple was making the earliest military inspired pieces, starting in the last half of the ‘90s. They had a sweet and casual approach to the style, incorporating camo and army greens as well as napoleon jacket aesthetics.
At the beginning of the 2000s, we started to see other brands contributing a couple pieces per year. Metamorphose introduced sailor and dress uniform style pieces that don't look that different from the military pieces they sell today. We also saw Moi-même-Moitié floor length military jackets, H.Naoto deconstructed military vests and velvet napoleon jackets from Jane Marple.
Meta's famous pink camo belted hem pleat JSK was an iconic release of the mid-2000s, followed by Angelic Pretty releasing the AYA army set in green camo, as well as a plaid school skirt. We also see Jane Marple releasing a pastel pink bustier. Excentrique started off slow with bustiers and skirts, but would soon be producing the most military designs out of all the brands in the second half of the 2000s.
At the tail end of the decade, we started to see an increase in military releases in general and pieces could be found at Bodyline, and Alice and the Pirates. AATP made some asymmetrical coats, and Excentrique introduced regimental stripes as well as cold weather military wear via fur hats and wool coats.
2010 sparked a lot of discussion about what designs hit too close to Nazi Germany uniforms and symbols, as it marked Meta’s Die Walkure release, formerly known as Dark Secrets, and the questionable choice of insignia on its peaked cap. It sparked enough outrage that the series was removed from Western stores. It was still available in Japan through e-mail requests, but Meta issued an apology for the design and we haven’t seen a release like that since. Excentrique introduces frog closure military pieces, Innocent World made some beautiful floral military pieces, and Bodyline brought along punk military aesthetics.
Despite that controversy, military lolita didn't decline in popularity. Atelier Boz, Infanta, Miho Matsuda and MILK entered the style and made a couple pieces. AP introduced cutsews and parkas to go along with their Marching series, and Bodyline made the first military themed print with Military Sweets. Meta released their Swan Lace print the year after, and we can see military is now readily available in a wide variety of colours.
2013-2015 is where we see the biggest spike in releases. We see exciting releases like Angelic Pretty’s Melty Royal Chocolate Series and many more prints such as Wonder Queen Soldier, Magical Night Theater, Toy’s March, and Moonlight Church Napoleon JSK. Victorian Maiden, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Putumayo, Atelier Pierrot, Sheglit and several Chinese indie brands released military style pieces during this time as well. Victorian Maiden brings houndstooth in with them, and AatP introduces pirate and steampunk based releases. We also began to see more military themed accessories like badges, pins and fourragere.
After 2015, we started to see a slow decline in military releases, especially with Excentrique making less and less during this time. However, Alice and the Pirates ramped up how many military designs they made per year and Maxicimam and Triple Fortune produced their first military themed pieces. British themed items emerged across Japanese brands via queen’s guard, union flag, or Sherlock Holmes inspired designs. Nevertheless, previous popular designs, like sailor, napoleon jackets, and regimental stripes, remained ever present. We also continued to see new military prints like Union Flag Soldier, The Knights of St. Lily, and King Bear JSK.
That takes us all the way to where we are today: beginning of the 2020s and going through the pandemic. Despite the mail being severely disrupted, lolitas are still buying. AatP is now the biggest contributor of new military lolita designs. Following them are Atelier Boz, Miho Matsuda and Chinese indie brands like YourHighness.
Hope everyone had fun reading about military lolita! Join us next time when we explore the political and social side of this fashion and how to wear it responsibly.
Until then, this is your resident ouji hoping you’re all safe and well!
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