Showing posts with label Lolita Themes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Lolita Themes. Show all posts

Friday, February 18, 2022

An Updated Look At Qi Lolita

Brand: Sing a Lullaby For You


Qi Lolita is a style that can be simply described as combining Chinese elements with lolita fashion. 


Name

In English, we call it Qi Lolita (pronounced like ‘chee’ lolita), likely because the very first dresses were based on qipao/cheongsam. Because of hanfu becoming more commonly used in this style, some have also taken to calling it Han Lolita when it is based on Chinese hanfu (not to be confused with Korean hanbok). 

In Chinese, you will most commonly see it referred to as 中华风 Lolita (zhōnghuá fēng lolita). This translates to ‘Chinese style’ lolita. Some Chinese brands may also use the term 国风 Lolita, or ‘national style’ lolita. 

In Japanese, it is known as 華ロリータ (hana rorīta) or shortened to 華ロリ(hana rori). This is derived from 中華風, which is really just another way of writing 中华风. So you may also sometimes see it being called 中華ロリータ or 中華ロリ.

To keep it simple, we will mostly be using the term qi lolita in the rest of this post.

Friday, May 28, 2021

♕ A Guide to Hime Lolita ♕

Hime Lolita is one of those themes that pretty much take an extravagant approach to lolita. It is primarily seen with the Sweet sub style, but it’s not impossible to see Gothic or Classic do this style as well. I don’t recommend this theme to newbies since it often needs many pieces to put together, and might not even be practical financially for a first dress. It’s definitely worth a try once you get to know the basics!


“Hime,” literally meaning “princess” in Japanese, aims to create just that - the look of a Princess. You’ll see this style come into OTT (over the top) territory with big hair, lots of head accessories, much bigger skirts, and even crowns and scepters.

Before we go into making a hime coord, let’s discuss some things about Hime!

♕ What’s the Difference Between Just OTT and Hime? ♕


(One type) of OTT


Hime

OTT is more like an umbrella term for anything on the more extreme side of styling. Hime is simply just one of many themes you could go for. Not everything OTT is hime. The coord on the right is definitely hime, whereas the coord on the left is OTT but more decora inspired.

♕ Hime doesn’t always have to look historical♕

It’s very common nowadays to see hime lolita look very historically influenced. When you Google “hime lolita”, you’ll likely see this:


I myself personally love the historical look, especially if it looks Rococo influenced, but Hime didn’t always start out that way! And you certainly don’t have to stick to this look either!

Around the 2010’s or so, hime moreso looked like this:



The style still had a lot of Rococo influence into it, but wasn’t required for your dress to look like a remake of an actual historical dress.


As seen here, hime didn’t always go super OTT either! The girl on the left certainly went that way with the amazing hat. However, the girl on the right just stuck to a frilly/tiered dress while the rest of her coord is a little more toned down. Her hair is still done in an updo, with some cute flowers!

There was also a lot of influence from hime gyaru, a substyle of gyaru - another jfashion popular at the time. Both liked princesses! I think it’s most obvious in the hairstyles. It was not uncommon to see hime lolita and hime gyaru sharing makeup, hairstyles, accessories, or tiaras.

Gyaru

Hime Lolita

♕ How Historical Is TOO Historical? ♕

While there certainly are lolita dresses that reach tea length, and many dresses that are highly influenced by history - there’s a point where a dress stops being lolita and starts being more historical recreation.


Here is a good example of a dress being historical, while staying within the lolita aesthetic. This dress by Hinana Queena (called their Rococo OP). This still suits lolita because of its length, as well as having the same silhouette. It just happens to be more poofy than a usual dress. It certainly has a lot of layers!


This next dress on the other hand, is straying too far from lolita to really be considered lolita anymore. The length and shape of the dress are too different. The shape starts to become more like an actual historical dress rather than the cupcake or A-line shape of a lolita dress.


In comparison, let’s look at this dress by Innocent World. It’s a dress that’s on the longer side, and yet it maintains the right silhouette and type of poof that you’d see in lolita. It also has enough of the historical influence, especially in the sleeves.


You might also see dresses like this being sold on lolita reseller sites or places like Chinese Lolita Updates. This dress is also very historically influenced, but not at all lolita. 

Remember: Just because a dress is being sold by a store that primarily does lolita, doesn’t mean that the dress itself is lolita.

It was inspired by the Regency period, which has a very different silhouette from lolita. It’s more tube shaped, and this dress was not intended for the kind of petticoats we see in lolita. Even though lolita has empire waists, the look of the dresses are still very different.


♕ Get Started ♕

Dress

First thing to cover is the main piece - your dress (JSK or OP) or a skirt. Truth be told, there’s a lot of dresses out there that make it really easy to make a coord hime. These dresses are often already very extravagant on their own.


Sugar Bouquet Rococo OP by BTSSB


Sweet Lacy Basket OP by Angelic Pretty


Secret Garden Princess - Metamorphose temps de fille


Romantic Rose Letter OP - Angelic Pretty


Usually, you’ll want to go for a dress that’s very fancy. It may have a lot more detail, bigger sleeves/hime sleeves, tiers or more ruffles than usual, or has a skirt that can hold a lot of poof! Sometimes there’ll be more detail on the bodice like extra bows, corset lacing, or a larger center piece. Motifs in hime often include florals, roses, birds, tea parties, or are even just solid dresses!

That being said, it’s still possible to use a dress that’s not as extravagant or not as intended for more over the top looks.


Wonder Party is being styled here in a more hime direction thanks to the hair, and fancier shoes. The hat helps to bring it into OTT territory without having the dress be super poofy.


Another toned down example is Rose Princess Doll JSK by Angelic Pretty! This was previously seen above in this blog of how hime used to look back then.



Side Note on Petticoats:  Some dresses are going to be really heavy, and will need a strong petticoat or even a hoopskirt to hold it up.  Since I’m not a fan of layering pettis, my suggestion would be to use a hoopskirt to hold up the majority of the dress. You could layer a comfy petti on top of this hoopskirt to give the dress an extra oompf.

Blouse




Blouses are a little easy in that it’s not that hard to find hime sleeve blouses at all. These blouses are very extravagant with their big bell sleeves, and lots of frills and details. Of course, not every blouse has to have hime sleeves for your coord to be hime.

You will still want to look for a blouse that has a lot of detail going on. Hime sleeve or not, blouses should be over the top whether in shape, design, or detail.






Legwear and Shoes

Legwear in my opinion can vary a lot depending on the dress, so I almost want to say that anything could go. Matching OTKs or anything lacy works, and sometimes stores come out with very princess-y printed tights.

Shoes however, should look luxurious. 

For toned down outfits, I think even tea party shoes should have more detail than a simple solid colored pair, whatever the heel height. This detail could again, be more bows, or even straps. 


Flat heel, Too simple.


Also a flatter heel, but much more detailed and works out better!

Some people go for shoes with a historical look to them, like Iris Corolla’s Rococo shoes.


Others opt for simpler shoes, but still have a luxe feel to them. These work out thanks to their jewels, pearls, and the ruffle on the back of the heel.


You can even try out using hime gyaru shoes! Normally, open toed shoes aren’t recommended for lolita. However, because of the decoration on the front part area on these kinds of shoes, I feel like it would work out well specifically for hime.




Accessories

Accessories are really fun with hime! It’s pretty much encouraged to add bits and bobs to your coord such as extra hair clips, brooches, rings, sashes, canotiers, and fancy jewelry. I especially love seeing hats or bonnets in hime! 

Just try to make sure they still match with your outfit. Perhaps a dress with more pearls or jewels could go well with a jeweled tiara, whereas a maybe a more floral coord or historical one would look better with a canotier or hat.







Props are also fun, and would be interesting to see at a tea party. BABY is known for their scepters after all.




Hair

Hairstyle can depend on what accessory you’re going with, but I always recommend that you do your hair somehow for hime. Your coord may look unfinished if everything else is fancy, but your hair is not. 





It’s not uncommon for hime to draw influences from gyaru hairstyles as well. Twin tails and beehives or bumps are common choices. Other times, people even go for historical Rococo-like hair! I for one fully encourage bigger hairstyles or wigs ;D

Though if bigger hair isn’t your thing, hair being down is done as well! I often see this when people wear bonnets or hats. As long as the head piece is still big enough to balance the poof of your dress, it should work out. Really your goal at the end of the day is to balance out your coord like you would any other style!



♕ Final Thoughts ♕

Hime is a beautiful style that I hope others will try out! It’s really fantastic for tea parties when people want to dress their best. I hope this guide has given you more information on what hime is, as well was what hime is not. I hope you can try it out for yourself as it’s definitely one of my favorite styles!

Thanks for reading!
Lady Grey

Friday, May 7, 2021

A Guide to Military Lolita Part 1

Welcome to our two part series all about military lolita!

In part 1 we look at what makes something military themed, how to coord it and how the look has changed throughout the years. In part 2 we’ll go over military lolita fashion inspirations, both fictional and non-fictional, how to spot the difference between hate symbols and generic military symbols, and how to avoid them.

Right up front, I’d like to invite anyone who has corrections or additions to leave a comment below, or e-mail me at rooibosloloto at gmail dot com! I’m more than happy to update this article as many times as we need to, so it can be a handy resource for people interested in this theme in the future.

Style Description

  • Military is a broad theme in lolita that can easily be coorded as gothic, classic or sweet.
  • It often overlaps with other uniform based themes like sailor, nurse, pirate, marching band, police, pilot, or academia.
  • Military pieces can come in any colour, but it’s most common to find black, white, grey, brown, navy, olive green, jewel tones and pastels.
  • Common patterns in the theme are regimental stripes, breton stripes, pinstripes, camouflage, plaid, and emblems.
  • Main pieces often include asymmetrical or double breasted enclosures, embellished metal buttons, pleats, straps, buckles, fringe trim, braided cord, leather details, prominent pockets and corset waists.
  • Common accessories found are long coats, napoleon jackets, military tunics, spencer jackets, vests, capes, epaulettes, fourragere, pins, badges, ties, boots, berets, peaked caps, tricorns, shako and other hats similar to those worn in various uniformed industries.

The Evolution of Military Lolita

Jane Marple was making the earliest military inspired pieces, starting in the last half of the ‘90s. They had a sweet and casual approach to the style, incorporating camo and army greens as well as napoleon jacket aesthetics.

At the beginning of the 2000s, we started to see other brands contributing a couple pieces per year. Metamorphose introduced sailor and dress uniform style pieces that don't look that different from the military pieces they sell today. We also saw Moi-même-Moitié floor length military jackets, H.Naoto deconstructed military vests and velvet napoleon jackets from Jane Marple.

Meta's famous pink camo belted hem pleat JSK was an iconic release of the mid-2000s, followed by Angelic Pretty releasing the AYA army set in green camo, as well as a plaid school skirt. We also see Jane Marple releasing a pastel pink bustier. Excentrique started off slow with bustiers and skirts, but would soon be producing the most military designs out of all the brands in the second half of the 2000s.

At the tail end of the decade, we started to see an increase in military releases in general and pieces could be found at Bodyline, and Alice and the Pirates. AATP made some asymmetrical coats, and Excentrique introduced regimental stripes as well as cold weather military wear via fur hats and wool coats.

2010 sparked a lot of discussion about what designs hit too close to Nazi Germany uniforms and symbols, as it marked Meta’s Die Walkure release, formerly known as Dark Secrets, and the questionable choice of insignia on its peaked cap. It sparked enough outrage that the series was removed from Western stores. It was still available in Japan through e-mail requests, but Meta issued an apology for the design and we haven’t seen a release like that since. Excentrique introduces frog closure military pieces, Innocent World made some beautiful floral military pieces, and Bodyline brought along punk military aesthetics.

Despite that controversy, military lolita didn't decline in popularity. Atelier Boz, Infanta, Miho Matsuda and MILK entered the style and made a couple pieces. AP introduced cutsews and parkas to go along with their Marching series, and Bodyline made the first military themed print with Military Sweets. Meta released their Swan Lace print the year after, and we can see military is now readily available in a wide variety of colours.

2013-2015 is where we see the biggest spike in releases. We see exciting releases like Angelic Pretty’s Melty Royal Chocolate Series and many more prints such as Wonder Queen Soldier, Magical Night Theater, Toy’s March, and Moonlight Church Napoleon JSK. Victorian Maiden, Baby the Stars Shine Bright, Putumayo, Atelier Pierrot, Sheglit and several Chinese indie brands released military style pieces during this time as well. Victorian Maiden brings houndstooth in with them, and AatP introduces pirate and steampunk based releases. We also began to see more military themed accessories like badges, pins and fourragere.

After 2015, we started to see a slow decline in military releases, especially with Excentrique making less and less during this time. However, Alice and the Pirates ramped up how many military designs they made per year and Maxicimam and Triple Fortune produced their first military themed pieces. British themed items emerged across Japanese brands via queen’s guard, union flag, or Sherlock Holmes inspired designs. Nevertheless, previous popular designs, like sailor, napoleon jackets, and regimental stripes, remained ever present. We also continued to see new military prints like Union Flag Soldier, The Knights of St. Lily, and King Bear JSK.

That takes us all the way to where we are today: beginning of the 2020s and going through the pandemic. Despite the mail being severely disrupted, lolitas are still buying. AatP is now the biggest contributor of new military lolita designs. Following them are Atelier Boz, Miho Matsuda and Chinese indie brands like YourHighness.

Hope everyone had fun reading about military lolita! Join us next time when we explore the political and social side of this fashion and how to wear it responsibly.


Until then, this is your resident ouji hoping you’re all safe and well!
Rooibos Tea: over and out!